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The Cheongsam |
The cheongsam is an elegant type of Chinese dress. This close-fitting dress with a high neck and the slits on the sides, comes from China’s Manchu Nationality. There is a beautiful legend from the Manchus about the cheongsam.
Legend has it that a young fisherwoman lived by the Jingbo Lake. She was not only beautiful, but also clever and skillful. But when fishing, she often felt hindered by her long and loose fitting dress. Then an idea struck her: why not make a more practical dress for work? She got down to sewing and produced a long multi-looped-button gown with slits, which enabled her to tuck in the front piece of her dress, thus making her job much easier. As a fisherwoman, she never dreamed that a fortune would befall on her.
The young emperor who ruled China at that time had a dream one night. In the dream, his dead father told him that a lovely fisherwoman in cheongsam by the Jingbo Lake would become his queen. After awakening from his deep sleep, the emperor sent his men to look for her. Sure enough, there she was! So she became the queen, bringing her cheongsam with her. Manchu women all followed suit and soon the cheongsam became popular.
We do not know whether the story is true or not. But one thing is certain. The cheongsam came from the Manchus who grew out of ancient Nuzhen tribes. In the early 17th century, Nurhachi, a great political and military strategist, unified the various Nuzhen tribes and set up the Eight Banners System. Over the years, a collarless, tube-shaped gown was developed, which was worn by both men and women. That is the embryo of the cheongsam. The cheongsam is called Qipao in Chinese or translated as “banner gown”, for it came from the people who lived under the Banner System.
The cheongsam became popular among ladies of the royal family in the Qing Dynasty. At that time, cheongsams were fitted loosely and were so long that they would reach the insteps. Usually, they were made of silk and the whole dress was embroidered, with broad lace trimmed at the collar, sleeves and edges.
In the 1920s, cheongsams became popular throughout China. With the influence of Western dress styles, the cheongsam underwent a change. The cuffs grew narrower and were usually trimmed with thin lace. The length of the dress was shortened as well. This new adaptation allowed the beauty of female body to be fully displayed.
In the 1930s, wearing a cheongsam became a fashion among women in the whole of China. Various styles existed during this period. Some were short, some were long, with low, high or even no collars at all.
Starting from the 1940s, cheongsams became closer-fitting and more practical. In summer, women wore sleeveless dresses. Cheongsams of this period were seldom adorned with patterns.
Today, with its variety of styles, the cheongsam shows its charm at many markets. More and more women in China appreciate its beauty. For instance, when wives of China’s diplomats attend important social gatherings, the cheongsam is their first choice among dresses. In fact, quite a number of influential people have suggested that cheongsams should become the national dress for women in China. This shows that the cheongsam remains a vibrant part of Chinese culture.
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